Chiang Mai - Trip Report Part One

Hi all forum members,

I%26#39;m going to attempt a trip report - but have so much info for you - you%26#39;ll have to bear with me. This is part one, which is the first five days we spent in Chiang Mai before heading up to Chiang Rai. This was our 5th trip to Chiang Mai - our first was 15 years ago, our last in early 2007. My husband and I traveled with our two sons aged 11 and 8.

Firstly we arrived at the CM International Airport from KL on a clear, sunny day - we flew Air Asia - the plane was brand new, not a single complaint from us. The airport is clean and a breeze to negotiate. You are greeted by an army of touts as soon as you get outside. We headed straight to the taxi counter immediately in front of the departure doors. We had to pay 50B airport tax and get a coupon for the driver and then we paid by the meter to our guest house. Total 68B on the meter.

Our cab driver was No 76 Mr Payon - Ph: 081 8824701. During the transfer he offered us 700B for a four hour (half day) service or 1400B for a full day service anywhere around the general Chiang Mai area. We later took him up on this.

Our first four nights of the trip we spent at the Baan Orapin. This was on the advice of forum members and TA reviews (rated no 1 B %26amp; B in CM). We were not disappointed. I%26#39;ll review the hotel fully in the review section - but need to say a huge thank you to everyone who recommended this place. It is just over the river from Warorot Market. There is not a single thing I would change about this place. It is family owned - the most beautiful setting with an old Thai home (owned by their grandmother) in the middle of the property. We had a suite with adjoining room - right near the pool and waterfall. Orchids everywhere - four posters beds and the most fabulous staff. Our two boys are constantly telling us they want to go and live with Pepsi (the owners cousin). He made our stay so special. There%26#39;s so much more I could say about this place....

The street it is on (Charoen Rat) runs along the river and is a wonderful neighbourhood to explore. Turn out of the left of the hotel and you pass a convenience store and several art gallery type shops you then hit the footbridge which takes you over the river to Warorot Market. It%26#39;s a really nice and very short walk. Also right near the foot bridge is a wonderful place called %26#39;Reginas%26#39;. Regina is a colourful, local character - you have to see her shop/restaurant to believe it. It%26#39;s jam packed with everything under the sun - and full of her life story. The place is a little run down but the food is awesome (her grand daughter cooks) - it%26#39;s also right on the river and has a lovely garden out back.

I also have to mention the pink tea house just next door - Vieng Joom On. DONT MISS THIS! I dragged my husband and three boys along - reluctantly. It is so beautiful - right on the river, full of antiques and the food is awesome. They have this plate of 9 tiny cakes - all delicious. Also very fresh food. We went back again later in the trip.

If you turn right out of the Baan Orapin you come to The Gallery, The Riverside and the Good View. All great places to while away a few hours at night for a drink and a meal. They have bands, river views and a real buzz. We had dinner one night at the Gallery and it was a great meal in a beautiful setting. Probably the best riverside restaurant we ate at - and good value as well. A real treat.

A tuk tuk ride from this side of the river to the night market or to the old city is 50B and less than 5 mins. We loved the location. We got to know lots of the local characters - the washing lady just to the left of our hotel is a scream. She answered the door one day with a towel around her and her hair full of shampoo. She delivered our washing on her push bike with basket on front.

We called our airport cab driver for a four hour (half day) trip. He was busy but sent us another driver - Mr Somchai No. 169 Ph: 083 8612644. Mr Somchai arrived half an hour after our call - four hours for the agreed price of 700B (all inclusive). Firstly we went up the mountain to Doi Suthep (20 mins away)- we love this place. The walk up the stairs isn%26#39;t too bad and the view from the top - awesome. Our boys love ringing the bells at the top. There is a great little cafe for a coffee break and lots of photo ops. Just make sure you wear pants that cover your knees to get into the temple area. We spent about an hour at the top while our driver waited down below. From here we went to Bor Sang Umbrella Village to stock up on some fans and umbrellas and then to our favorite village the SAA paper village (Ban Ton Pao). This paper village is well worth the visit - right next to Bor Sang. I bought about 30 large sheets of beautiful hand made paper - I use it to wrap around art canvas%26#39; to hang on the wall at home. No problems bringing Never had a problem bringing this paper or umbrellas, fans etc back into Aus. We always declare them. The only things they take are things with plant leaves or petals or seeds - also elephant dung paper isn%26#39;t allowed. The four hour trip was great value for 700B.

We also spent a morning exploring the bookshops up near the moat area. Just outside of the Tha Phae Gate there is about four fantastic book shops (new and used) with editions from all over the world.

Another morning was spent wandering around the Warorot Market area. I was prepared for the pig heads but the live eel squiring on the floor at our feet was somewhat freaky. There are lots of great shops on the street around this area - not so much inside the building. Although later in the trip we were visiting our sponsor child - so we were able to buy blankets, towels etc here to take on our visit.

As well as the things above we fitted a lot more into these days - including massages, meals out and about and a visit to %26#39;Miss Chocolate%26#39;, another great cafe near the Baan Orapin. (the name says it all).

One highlight of these five days was the Sunday Walking Street. This is one of my fav experiences of Chiang Mai - literally hundreds of stalls with amazing hand made things - clothes, toys, photo cards, leather goods, portrait artists etc. It runs from the Tha Phae gate right through the moat area and kicks off around late afternoon. Heaps of places to eat and very ambient. By amazing co-incidence I ran into destination expert %26#39;Lanna Focus%26#39; at the market and was able to thank him in person for all of his help with our planning. %26#39;Hi%26#39; if you are reading this.

We didn%26#39;t want to leave the Baan Orapin - but we had three nights in Chiang Rai ahead - then back to Chiang Mai again. See next trip report.

Caroline.

Chiang Mai - Trip Report Part One

Hi Caroline,

Thanks for a wonderful report,it brings back memories of our trip last April.

We love Chiang Mai and can%26#39;t wait to get back there.

We will definately put Reginas, Vieng Joom On and Miss Chocolate on our list for next time.

We also enjoyed eating at the Gallery and also wandering around the Worrorot Markets.

Did you get to Ban Tawai , good shopping there?

Also Baan Celadon Tea House is nice for a cuppa and cakes.

Cheers,

Stewie.

Chiang Mai - Trip Report Part One

Great JBR Caroline. Tis saved for future reference as we want to go for Loy Krathong next year.

Hi Stewie and B/J,

I hate to say this but there%26#39;s a lot more to come.

Stewie, for the second part of our stay we were at the Centara Duangtawan for a week - took your advice and gave Gekkos at visit. Those jugs of cocktails for 199B awesome! Thanks for the tip. Turns out it is actually owned by an American guy. He came out and sat and chatted to us for a while. We told him that %26#39;Stewie from Perth%26#39; had put us on to the place from Trip Advisor. He was pretty chuffed that he was %26#39;on the internet%26#39;.

We also had a great three days in Chiang Rai - I%26#39;ll save it until I%26#39;ve got the energy to put more together. If only I had one of those jugs!

C.

Hi Caroline,

Can%26#39;t wait to read your second report.

Got any good shopping tips?

My wife loves Ban Tawai, also she bought a nice bag at Airport Plaza for $17.

Cheers,

Stewie.

Don%26#39;t even talk to me about shopping.

18 kilos of excess baggage hurt!

We also carried on an extra bag - my husband carried on his hand luggage plus a whole extra bag weighing at least 8 kgs and no one even questioned it.

I bought heaps of things in Chiang Mai like cotton tops, bags, leather wallets, hand made things from walking street, all the usual (DVD%26#39;s etc). I love the Kalare Night Market area. There is a great bead guy there - and a lady who makes beautiful jewerly from munaro glass. Awesome value.

Stewie - you%26#39;ve probably already booked your next trip - but coming from Perth, have a look at Air Asia X fares. Maybe you are traveling on them? The shopping in Kuala Lumpur is amazing and a few days stop over is shopping heaven. The girls would love it. I got heaps of shoes and handbags there - amazing value and excellent quality. Also things like watches and DVD%26#39;s, CD%26#39;s were much cheaper in Malaysia than Thailand (about $1-50A). The things I tend to buy in CM are the hand made things - especially things from Walking Street. All my girl friends here are jealous of the things I got there. Although I bought for them too.

C.

Hi Caroline,

We will be flying in from Laos - Luang Prabang.

We will be staying at the Bodhi Serene Hotel in the Old City for 5 nights and then Keng our driver will be taking us on a 5 day -4 night trip to Mae Hong Son , Pai, Golden Triangle, Chiang Rai and then back to Chiang Mai for another 5 night stay.

Cheers,

Stewie.

Thanks for the great JBR. We will be going to Thailand for the first time in one week and starting our trip in Chiang Mai, staying at Baan Orapin. We hope to do many of the same things that you did and the details about restaurants, shopping and sightseeing were very helpful. Your report made me even more excited than I was before.

Chris

Hi Chris,

Have you read my 2 trip reports.

the first one is a summarised report and the second one is a day by day report.

Just type in the search box.

Stewie%26#39;s 2008 Chiang Mai Trip Report.

Stewie%26#39;s Day By Day Chiang Mai Trip Report.

Cheers,

Stewie.

Hi Chris,

You%26#39;ll love the Baan Orapin. We were a bit concerned about it being over the river from the old city and night market. It wasn%26#39;t a problem at all. The street is really interesting and the footbridge so close by. The staff are so incredibly helpful and welcoming. Have a great trip. I%26#39;ll try to get the second part of my report done soon - we did heaps of other things in Chiang Mai. Don%26#39;t miss the Sunday Walking Street market.

Also Chris - not sure if you are flying Air Asia X. We did, from the Gold Coast. If you click on my profile you%26#39;ll see I%26#39;ve done a full trip report on the flight. Lots of detail. You may be interested.

C.

Hi Caroline,

Thank you sooo much for all the advice and tips..the printer is working hard as I type. Myself and my husband are going to Thailand at the beginning of December for a few weeks. We are planning on spending about 7-8 days in Northern Thailand and wondering what your thoughts are on Chiang Mai v%26#39;s Chiang Rai..I would love to hear your feedback and thoughts. We are planning on doing the Mahout training in Lampang before we fly south so wondering if you think it would be worth flying into Chiang Rai and out of Chiang Mai and if we would have enough time?

Would really appreciate anyones advice.

Many thanks in advance.

L